July 6: Logroño to Najera

Today was the walk we were pretty much dreading--31 k, or about 19.35 miles. We set the alarm for 4:30, with the intent of eating a quick breakfast at the albergue and heading out. (Last night we got a few groceries, and I headed back to bed while Em and Niles went out to dinner; I was just too tired.)

So we actually made it up at 4:30, along with most of the rest of the peregrinos at the algergue. Although the trail of water I found running alongside my bunk slowed us down a bit: Niles had set his pack down on the bite valve of his hydration bladder, so it leaked out pretty much all of the water. Mopping detail at 5:00 a.m. was a pretty awesome start to the day, but we managed.

We actually got out onto the Camino by 5:50 a.m.--something of a victory for us! The morning was wonderful; it was still dark when we started walking, and we exited Lograño by sunrise. Although not too much of one. The sky was very overcast, and what looked like an awful lot like thunderclouds were looming on the horizon.

We were all pretty nervous about how the day was going to go, since from the map we had it looked like the first 2/3 of the trek would be uphill. The sky stayed pretty overcast, which was actually nice, because it meant that the day stayed wonderfully cool for our longest walk yet. We were all pretty low on energy, though, so it was a pretty quiet day. We didn´t walk with others too much. At about 9:30 we stopped for coffee (me) and cold drinks (Em and Niles) and a pastry, and that helped a bit. But the neuromas in my feet started flaring up pretty early, so I was wondering how far I was going to get.

At about 11:00 we met some of the other pilgrims we had met--TJ (Tycho) and a young man from Germany, currently living in the US, and sometimes working in Candada. TJ had shinsplints, and the other young man (whose name I never got--how did that happen?) was suffering from "what feels like a swelling under the ball of my foot, and like I´m stepping on a rock." That sounds familiar (right, Dr. R?), and I suggested that he start dosing with asperin or ibuprofin to reduce inflammation, and get ice on the foot when he could. Unfortunately, he has to leave Spain before long, and was planning on walking about 65 k a day to finish before he heads home. Not the best way to reduce that kind of foot pain, for sure. Hope he makes it ok.

After we had done about 21 k, Niles and TJ decided they would probably just catch a bus the rest of the way, and Em and I started out on the last leg. Fortunately the weather remained cool even though the sun came out, and the last portion was pretty much all down hill, so we made it in record time. By the time we got to the albergue, though, we realized we had probably pushed harder than we should have; we were both pretty darn whupped, but also pretty excited we had finished the day we´d been dreading in really good time. We actually finished in 8 hours, when our guide had listed travel time of 8 1/2 hours.

About an hour or so later, Niles and Tycho showed up, having given up on the bus and deciding to walk as well. So we all make it, and decided we should celebrate with a beer.

Najera is a lovely town, with some wonderful outdoor cafes, and we found a great place to share a drink and celebrate. After about an hour we headed out to find a restaurant for dinner, and ended up with probably the best dinner I´ve had yet. Tycho was very excited because the world cup game was on--Uruguay vs. Holland. (He´s Dutch, remember.) As luck would have it, Niles, Em and I actually saw Holland score the first goal, and he totally missed it. He stayed after a bit to watch more of the game, but we were just too tired, and headed back to the algbergue to get to bed. The signs here ask people not to get up before 6:00 a.m., which now feels like an incredible luxery to us. But we have a short day tomorrow--only 21 k--about 13 or 14 miles, and five hours of walking. So we feel like we can sleep in a bit.

Talked to Marty today, and we think we´ve figured out where to meet him when he gets here next week. He´ll probably have to spend 2 nights in an albergue to connect with us in a place with train service, since he´ll get there a day before we do. But it should work out well, and we hope to connect with a host who is American--something pretty rare here.

So all in all a good day, with people continuing to share encouragment, meds, and advice, along with a lot of laughter. I am beginning to feel the first pangs of homesickness, even with the kids here. I´ll be glad to see Marty next week, for sure! But I´m so amazed with what we did today, in light of how impossible it seemed a few weeks ago. I think we all feel like we´re getting stronger, and are more confident with our ability to finish this.

More tomorrow, but now--it is definitely time for sleep! Blessings and peace to all!