Over the Pyranees and into Roncasvalle

Well, we made it over the Pyranees--something I´ve been trying to imagine having accomplished for a long time. Yesterday, that first short stretch up had me really worried about today, when we would be going more than twice as far. I really wasn´t sure how we were going to be able to do it, especially since the second day of something like this is usually much more difficult for me.

We had a great dinner last night (lamb, fixed by people who know how to do it, and beans and vegetable soup), but this morning we fueled up for the long trek with--no kidding--a bowl of coffe, and pieces of bread with butter and jam. Seriously, that was it. I gotta admit I was pretty stunned that that was the breakfast provided by the algergue, but there you go. I drank my bowl of coffee and ate about three or four small (baguette-sized) pieces of bread, and off we went.

Again, we traveled over twice as far today, but did an increase in elevation about equal to what we did yesterday in much less distance. Which meant that the climb wasn´t nearly as stressful. Em and Niles rapidly fell into a pattern of pacing, letting each other know what they needed or what was working, and whatever they came up with seemed to work well for me.

And oh my gosh. The Pyranees! So stunningly beautiful! Lots of sheep, and cows, and horses on mountain tops with very little in the way of habitation. The sound of the bells travels for miles. And so often we´d just stop and watch the vultures soaring and riding the thermals. Up close, you know, they are pretty darn ugly. But soaring across a blue sky in huge, graceful loops, they are pretty darn beautiful. Idyllic doesn´t begin to describe it.

Coming down the Pyranees was a completely different type of beauty, as we rapidly came below the tree line. The descent was steep and fast, and we were indeed feeling the different stress. My knees began complaining pretty much right off the bat. But actually, all things considered, we´ve all done very well--no serious blisters, pains or injuries in these two very strenuous days.

Again, we certainly see other pilgrims--many of whom we have seen off and on again in the algergues or along the way, and so developed a camino friendship. (The kind that says, "Could you take just one more picture for us?" or "Do you have any idea where one might find a somewhat un-humiliating spot for a relief break?¨ Certain levels of friendships develop quickly out of necessity here, supported by the communal life of the albergues.)

Anyway, there are other pilgrims. But there is plenty of space for walking on one´s own, too--just enough quiet time and companionship balancing wonderfully. This is a very low week for pilgrim travel, which I gotta admit has been a relief to me. I was sort of dreading the record numbers I kept hearing about.

So it´s been a day filled with beauty and gratitude more than offsetting the strains and aches and occasional weariness. I have been very aware of the number of people who have said they´d be praying for us today--and we felt those prayers! I have been filled with gratitude for the opportunity to walk--not only in this place, but in this kairos-space. An abundance of blessing, indeed.